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Economic Classification (Fibers)
Filling Fibers Natural Fabrics Fibers for
Paper Manufacture
Structure & Occurrence (Fibers)
Textile Fibers Surface Fibers Cotton Fibers Cotton
Characteristics
Kinds of Cotton Sea-Island Cotton Egyptian Cotton Cotton Industry Cotton Uses
Flax Hemp Jute Ramie Sunn Hemp Misc Soft Fibers
China Jute or Indian Mallow Kenaf
Roselle or Rama Aramina or Cadillo
Abacá or Manila Hemp Agave Fibers
Henequen or Mexican Sisal Sisal Istle Maguey Mauritius Hemp New Zealand Hemp Bowstring Hemp
Coir Pineapple Pita Floja
Caroá
Brush Fibers Piassava Broomcorn Broomroot
Rough Weaving & Plaiting Fibers
Hat Fibers Mats and Matting Baskets Wickerwork Filling Fibers
Kapok
Kapok Substitutes Misc. Filling
Fibers Natural
Fabrics Papermaking Fibers
==================================================================================
Agaves Bamboo Kopok Luffa Gourd Palms Wool & Cotton
Tree
===========================================================================================
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Plants yielding fibers have been
second only to food plants in their usefulness to humans and their influence
on the furthering of civilization.
Primitive humans in their attempts to obtain the three most important
necessities for life: food, shelter
& clothing, focused on plants.
Even though animal products were available, some form of clothing was
needed that was lighter and cooler than skins and hides. It was easier to obtain from plants such
items as bowstrings, nets, snares, etc.
Also plant products were available from the leaves, stems and roots of
many plants to construct shelter. Very early on plant
fibers have had a more extensive use than silk, wool and other animal
fibers. Gradually as humans’ needs
multiplied, the use of vegetable fibers increased greatly until presently
they continue to be of great importance even after the onset of plastics. It is impossible to estimate the number of
species of fiber plants, but over a thousand species of plants have yielded
fibers in America alone, and over 800 occur in the Philippines. However, plant fibers of commercial
importance ore relatively few, the greater number being native species used
locally by primitive peoples in all parts of the world. Their durability often exceeds those of
synthetic manufacture, one example being sisal & Manila hemps. The most prominent
fibers of the present are of great antiquity. The cultivation of flax, for example, dates back to the Stone
Age of Europe, as discovered in the remains of the Swiss Lake Dwellers. Linen was used in Ancient Egypt and cotton
was the ancient national textile of India, being used by all the aboriginal
peop0les of the New World as well.
Ramie or China grass has been grown in the Orient many thousands of
years. Economic Classification (Fibers) Plastic materials are often used instead of natural
products because they cost less and sometimes tend to be more durable. However, natural plant products continue
to have some superior attributes and are used when materials are readily
available. There are six principal
groups of fibers distinguished according to the way in which they are used. Textile Fibers are the most
important in that they are used for fabrics, cordage and netting. To make fabrics and netting flexible
fibers are twisted together into thread or yarn and then either spun,
knitted, woven or in some other way utilized. Fabrics include cloth for wearing apparel, domestic use,
awnings, sails, etc., and also coarser materials such as gunny and
burlap. Fabric fibers are all of some
commercial value. Netting fibers that
are used for hammocks, lace and all forms of nets include many of the
commercial fabric fibers and a number of native fibers as well. Both commercial and native fibers are used
for cordage. For this the individual
fibers are twisted together instead of being woven. Binder Twine, fish lines, hawsers, rope and cables are among
the many types. Brush Fibers are stiff tough
fibers including small stems and twigs that are utilized for making brooms
and brushes. Rough Weaving
& Plaitling Fibers.
Plaits are fibrous, flat and pliable strands that are interlaced to
make straw hats, baskets, sandals, chair seats, etc. The most elastic strands are woven
together for mattings and the thatched roofs of houses. The supple twigs or woody fibers are for
making chairs, baskets and other wickerwork. Filling Fibers are used for
stuffing mattresses, cushions and in upholstery; for caulking seams in boats
and in casks and barrels; as stiffening in plaster and as packing material. Natural Fabrics are usually
obtained from tree basts that are extracted from bark in layers or sheets and
pounded into rough substitutes for lace or cloth. Fibers for Paper
Manufacture includes textile fibers and wood fibers that are used in
either the raw or manufactured state. A plant cannot be restricted absolutely
to any single group because the same fiber may be used for different
purposes. Also, a plant may yield
more than one kind of fiber. Thus the
following discussion includes species that are considered in the group in
which they are of the greatest importance. Structure & Occurrence (Fibers) All fibers are similar in that
they are sclerenchyma cells that serve as part of the plant skeleton. They are predominantly long cells with
thick walls and small cavities and usually pointed ends. The walls often contain lignin as well as
cellulose. Fibers occur singly or in
small groups, but they are more apt to form sheets of tissue with the
individual cells overlapping and interlocking. Fibers may occur in almost any part of a plant: stems, leaves, fruits, seeds, etc. The four main types grouped according to
their origin include bast fibers, wood fibers, sclerenchyma
cells associated with the vascular bundle strands in leaves, and surface fibers that are hair
like outgrowths on the seeds of the plants.
The term “bast fiber” is subject to criticism, as it gives no
indication as to the particular tissue or region in which the fibers
occur. It might be preferable to
designate those fibers that occur in the outer parts of the stem as cortical
fibers, pericyclic fibers or phloem fibers.
But “bast” is a term that has been in use for a long time and is so
established in commerce that it will be used in this discussion. Fibers of economic importance occur in many different
plant families, especially those from the tropics. Some of the more important families are the Palmaceae,
Gramineae, Liliaceae, Musaceae, Amaryllidaceae, Malvaceae, Urticaceae,
Linaceae, Moraceae, Tiliaceae, Bromeliaceae, Bombacaceae, and Luguminosae. These fibers must be long and
possess a high tensile strength and cohesiveness with pliability. They must have a fine, uniform, lustrous
staple and must be durable and abundantly available. Only a small number of the different kinds
of fibers possess these traits and are thus of commercial importance. The principal textile fibers are grouped
into three classes: surface fibers,
soft fibers and hard fibers, with the last two often referred to as long
fibers. Surface or short fibers include the so-called
cottons. The soft fibers are the bast
fibers that are found mainly in the pericycle or secondary phloem of
dicotyledon stems. Bast fibers are
capable of subdivision into very fine flexible strands and are used for the
best grades of cordage and fabrics.
Included are hemp, jute, flax and ramie. Hard or mixed fibers are structural elements found
mainly in the leaves of many tropical monocots, although they may be found in
fruits and stems. They are used for the
more coarse textiles. Sisal, abacá,
henequén, agaves, coconut and pineapple are examples of plants with hard
fibers. Cotton is one of the greatest of all industrial
crops. it is the principal fiber
plant as well as one of the oldest and most economical. It was known since ancient times and well
before written records. There are
references to cotton by the ancient Greeks and Romans. Cotton was found in India before 1,800
B.C. The Hindus were believed to be
one of the first people to weave cloth in the Eastern Hemisphere, although
reference to Nordic traders of woven goods in North America during the Bronze
Age has been made by Fell 1982 (http://faculty.ucr.edu/~legneref/bronze/fell2.htm). Cotton was introduced to Europe by the
Arabs who called the plant “qutn.”
The plant had several origins because Columbus found it in cultivation
in the West Indies, and it was known to the Amerindians of Neotropical
America in Pre-Columbian times.
Cotton became a commercial crop in the united States after 1787.. Several species of the genus Gossypium provide
what we call cotton. The fine fibrous
hairs that occur on the seeds constitute the raw material. These hairs are flattened, twisted and
tubular. They compose the lint, floss
or staple. Their length and other
qualities vary with the different varieties.
The plant is a perennial shrub or small tree naturally, but under
cultivation it is treated as an annual.
It branches freely and grows to a height of 4-8 ft. Cotton thrives in
sandy soil in humid regions that are near water. This environment is typified in the southern United States and
in the river valleys of India and Egypt.
Cotton matures in 5-6 months and is ready to harvest soon after. Hundreds of
varieties have been developed from wild ancestors or produced by breeding
during the long period of cultivation.
Varieties differ in fiber character as well as other morphological
features. Cotton is a difficult group
to classify and the exact number of species is subject to argument. Cultivated cottons of commercial
importance are usually referred to one or another of four species: Gossypium barbadense and G.
hirsutum in the Western Hemisphere and G. arboreum and G. herbaceum
in the Eastern Hemisphere. 1.--Gossypium
barbadense probably
originated in tropical South America.
The flowers are bright yellow with purple spots. The fruit, or boll, has three valves, and
the seeds are fuzzy only at the ends.
Two distinct types exist: Sea-Island Cotton. This type has never been found in the wild as it was already
being cultivated at the time of Columbus.
It has fine, strong and light cream-colored fibers that are regular in
the number and uniformity of the twists and they have a silky
appearance. These characteristics are
valuable and sea-island cotton was formerly in great demand for the finest
textiles, yarns, and lace and spool cotton.
Sea-island cotton was brought to the United States from the West
Indies in 1785. The finest types were
developed on the islands off the South Carolina coast and adjacent
mainland. Here strong and firm
stables of two inches or more in length were produced. Another form of sea-island cotton was
grown along the coast in Georgia to Florida and in the West Indies and South
America. This has a staple of 1.5-1.75
in. in length. The yield of
sea-island cotton was lower than other kinds of cotton, but this was
compensated for by the greater value of the fiber. The boll weevil almost completely eradicated production of
sea-island cotton before control measures were discovered.
Egyptian Cotton This cotton is grown in the Nile basin of
Egypt where it was introduced from Central America. The plant is similar in appearance to sea-island cotton and is
believed to be a hybrid. However, the
staple is brown in color and shorter.
Its length, strength, and firmness make this cotton suitable for
thread, undergarments, hosiery, and fine dress goods. Egyptian cotton was brought to the United
States in 1902 as an experimental crop and 10 years later it was recommended
to farmers in the semiarid regions that were under irrigation. It was then grown in the western states of
California, New Mexico and Arizona.
Repeated selection and breeding resulted in the development of new
strains of which Pima Cotton is of highest
quality. 2.--Gossypium
hirsutum is a native
American species that was grown by Pre-Columbian civilizations. It is usually called Upland Cotton, and is the easiest and most
economical kind of cotton to grow. It
constitutes the greater part of the cultivated cotton of the world. The flowers are white or light yellow and
unspotted. The bolls are four- or
five-valved, and the seeds are covered with fuzz. Upland cotton thrives under a variety of conditions but does
best in a sandy soil with abundant moisture during the growing and fruiting
season and dryness during the time of boll opening and harvest as well as a
temperature of 60-90 deg. Fahrenheit.
The northern limit of economic growth is 37 deg. N. Lat. The Cotton Belt of the southern United
States grows mostly upland cotton.
The fibers are white with a wide range in staple length (5/8ths to
1.3/8ths in.). There are over 1210
named varieties, many of which were developed through breeding
experiments. The species probably
originated in Guatemala or southern Mexico and spread northward to its
present limits in North America. A
well-marked variety, often recognized as a distinct species, occurs in the
West Indies and along the dry coastal areas of South America as far as
Ecuador and Brazil. Another variety
occurs in Central America, northward along the Gulf of Mexico to Florida and
the Bahamas and in the Greater Antilles. 3.--Gossypium
arboreum is the perennial
tree cotton of Africa, India and Arabia.
It was most likely the first to be used commercially, but production
is now confined to India. The staples
are coarse and very short (3/8ths to 34 in. long), but they are strong. 4.--Gossypium
herbaceum is the principal cotton of Asia. It was grown in Indian in ancient times
and continues to be used locally there and in Iran, China and Japan. Its chief use is for fabrics, carpets and
blankets and is often blended with wool. There are additionally several wild species of Gossypium
in some tropical and subtropical areas. Cotton used to be an expensive material because it was
difficult to remove the fibers from the seed. The cotton gin developed by Eli Whitney in 1793 changed this
situation and a revolution of the industry was started. Cotton then assumed a very prominent
position in world commerce. The
economics of cotton has had a profound effect on both the producing and
purchasing nations. It is well
accepted that slavery was perpetuated in America because of this crop. There are several steps necessary in the preparation of
raw cotton fiber in order to prepare it for the textile industry. These operations involve ginning in either
a saw-tooth or a roller gin, baling, transporting to the mills, picking to
remove any foreign matter and delivers the cotton in a uniform layer, lapping
where three layers are combined into one, carding, combing and drawing where
the short fibers are extracted and the others straightened and evenly
distributed, and finally twisting the fibers into thread. Cotton is used either by itself or in combination with
other fibers in the manufacture of all types of textiles. Unspun cotton is extensively used for
stuffing purposes. Treating the
fibers with caustic soda, which imparts a high luster and silky appearance,
makes Mercerized Cotton. Absorbent
Cotton consists of fibers that have been cleaned and from which the
oily covering layer has been removed.
It is almost pure cellulose and makes up one of the basic raw
materials of various cellulose industries.
A noteworthy advance in
the cotton industry was the utilization of what were formerly waste
products. In the early stages of the
industry the cotton seed along with its fuzzy covering of short hairs or
linters was discarded. However, all
parts of the plant are now conserved to yield products that are
valuable. The stalks contain a fiber
that can be used to make paper or fuel and the roots possess a crude
drug. The seeds are used for oil
extraction and for livestock feed.
The linters give wadding, stuffing for pads, cushions, pillows,
mattress, etc; absorbent cotton; low grade yarn for twine, ropes and carpets;
and cellulose. The hulls are also
livestock feed; fertilizer; lining oil wells to prevent cave-ins of the
sides; as a source of Xylose, a sugar that can be
converted into alcohol or various explosives and industrial solvents. The kernels yield an important fatty oil,
cottonseed oil; and oil cake and meal are used for fertilizer, livestock
feed, and flour and as a dye. Once the most valuable and useful
of fibers, flax gradually became less important as synthetics and cotton
assumed more prominent roles. Flax is
more durable than cotton and can yield a very fine fabric. The plant has been under cultivation for
so long that its point of origin is unknown.
It was used by the Swiss Lake Dwellers and was known to the ancient
Hebrews and is frequently noted in the Bible. The ancient Egyptians wore linen and used it for the burial
cloths. They carved pictures of the
flax plant on their tombs. Long
before the Christian era the Greek imported flax, and it is believed that the
plant was being cultivated prior to 3,000 B.C. Flax is in the genus Linum
that contains several wild species of no economic importance as well as Linum
usitatissimum, the source of the commercial fiber. The plant is an annual herb with blue or
white flowers and small leaves. It
grows to a height of from 1-4 ft. The
fibers are formed in the pericycle and are made up of very tough, stringy
strands from 1-3 ft. long that are aggregates of many long pointed cells with
very thick cellulose walls. Flax does
best in soil that is rich in organic matter and moisture and in temperate
regions, but it may be grown elsewhere.
Preparation of the fibers is a more expensive procedure than for
cotton. The crop is harvested and a
process known as rippling breaks the stems.
The fibers may then be rotted out by submerging the stems in water or
by exposing them to dew. During this
process called retting and enzyme dissolves the calcium pectate of the middle
lamella, which holds the cells together, and frees the fibers. After retting the straw is dried and
cleaned and the fibers are completely separated from the other tissues of the
stem by an operation known as scutching.
Finally the shorter fibers that constitute the tow are separated from
the longer fibers. The long fibers are the only ones suited for spinning. The fibers of flax have great
tensile strength, staple length, durability and fineness. They are used in the manufacture of linen
cloth and thread, canvas, duck, strong twine, carpets, fish and seine lines,
cigarette paper, writing paper and insulating materials. Fibers from the stalks of flax grown for
seed are too harsh and brittle for spinning but may be used for other
purposes. The principal production area was
Northern Europe, with Russia producing around 70 percent of the world
crop. Some of the finest flax is
grown in Belgium. The Pilgrims
introduced flax into North America and these and other colonists were growing
sufficient amount for domestic use until 1900. Flax is a good crop with which to reclaim native soil and for a
long time its cultivation was confined to the frontier. Flax is grown for its seed in areas with
low rainfall. The seed is used in
medicine and as a source of linseed oil. The term “hemp” is applied loosely to include a number
of very different plants and fibers.
The true hemp is Cannabis sativa, a plant native to
Central and Western Asia but has spread worldwide where it often occurs as a
troublesome weed. The plant is a stout, bushy, branching annual that
varies from 5-15 ft in height. It is
dioecious with hollow stems and palmate leaves. The best grade of fiber is obtained from male plants. Hemp requires a mild humid climate and a
rich loamy soil with an abundance of humus.
Calcareous soils are especially suitable. The fiber is white bast that develops in the pericycle. It is valuable because of its length that
varies from 3-15 ft, its strength and great durability. However, it lacks the flexibility and
elasticity of flax because of its lignification. Yields are usually high with one acre producing 2-3 tons of
stems, 25 percent of which is fibrous material. The plants are harvested and shocked and dried. The fibers are separated from the rest of
the bark by retting, either in dew or in water. They are then broken, scutched and hackled. Hemp must be harvested when the male
flowers are in full bloom or the fibers are too week or too brittle to be of
value. Hemp is an ancient crop that had been grown in China
before 2,000 B.C. It was introduced
into Europe around 1,500 B.C. It reached
North America in early colonial days and became a viable industry in Kentucky
and Wisconsin. By the 21st Century
very little of the crop was being grown in North America. Hemp has been used to make ropes, carpets, twine, and
sailcloth, yacht cordage, binder twine, sacks, bags and webbing. The waste and woody fibers of the stem
were sometimes used to make paper.
The finer grades can be woven into a cloth that resembles coarse
linen. The short fibers or tow and
ravelings constitute Oakum. This is used for caulking the seams
between the plants in shipbuilding, in cooperage and as packing for pumps,
engines, etc. In the tropics hemp is
grown for its seed, and also for a drug that is gotten from the flowering
tops and leaves. The seeds contain
oil that is useful in the soap and paint industries as a substitute for
linseed oil. The drug, known as Hashish, is a resinous substance that contains
several powerful alkaloids. In
America this type of hemp is known as Marijuana. Ganja is a specially cultivated and
harvested grade of hemp used for smoking and in beverages and candies. It has high resin content. Jute has been used almost extensively as cotton even
though it is much less valuable than either cotton of flax. It is a bast fiber obtained from the
secondary phloem of two species of Corchorus of Asia. The best quality is from C. capsularis,
a species with round pods that is grown in lowland areas subject to
flooding. The plant is a tall,
slender, somewhat shrubby annual with yellow flowers that grows to a height
of 8-10 ft. It requires a warm
climate and a rich, loamy alluvial soil.
Fiber from C. olitorius, and upland species with long pods, is
somewhat inferior but the two are not separated in commerce. Harvest occurs within 3-4 months after planting and
while the flowers are still in full bloom.
The stems are retted in pools or tanks for several days to rot out the
softer gummy tissues, and whipping the stems on the surface of the water then
loosens the jute, or Gunny, strands.
The pale-yellow fibers are very long, from 6-10 ft. in length, and
they are very stiff being highly lignified.
They have a silky luster. They
are produced in abundance, but are not especially strong and they tend to
deteriorate when exposed to moisture.
Despite these disadvantages they are economical and easily spun. Plastics have replaced many of the
products formerly made from jute, however. Jute has been used mainly for rough weaving into burlap
bags, gunnysacks and covers for cotton bales. The fiber is also used for twine, carpets, curtains and coarse
cloth. Short fibers and pieces from
the lower ends of the stalks make up jute butts that have been used in paper
manufacture. India has the largest
acreage of jute. Baehmeria nivea is a perennial, herbaceous or
shrubby plant without branches when cultivated. It has slender stalks that reach a height of 3-6 ft. and they
bear heart-shaped leaves that are green above and white beneath. The plant is from Asia and was grown in
China in ancient times. It requires a
fertile, well-drained soil. Several
crops per year compensate for a rather low yield, especially in North
America. Fine fibers are obtained from the bast, which are very
long, strong and durable. They also
have a high degree of luster and would be desirable for textile purposes were
it not for difficulties in the extraction and cleaning process. The stems are first immersed in water. The bark is then peeled off and the outer
portions and green tissue are scraped off or are removed by oiling or
mechanical means. The fibers that
remain are heavily coated with gum and require further treatment before they
can be used. They make up the China Grass, or Filasse,
that is used in the manufacture of grass cloth and other dress goods in
Asia. Ramie has been used in Europe
for under garments, upholstery, thread and paper. Although it is one of the strongest fibers known, being three
times as strong as hemp, ramie has not been generally used because the treatment
necessary to remove the fibers is very costly. The development of a simpler process has not increased the use
of ramie. Another variety, Boehmeria nivea var. tenacissima,
is sometimes called Rhea. This plant is native to Malaya and resembles ramie except that
the leaves are green on both sides.
Rhea fiber is included under ramie in industry. Crotalaria juncea is an important fiber plant in
Asia. It has been cultivated since ancient
times and there are no known wild ancestors.
It is the earliest fiber to be mentioned in Sanskrit writings (Hill
1952). It is a shrubby annual legume
from 6-12 ft tall with bright yellow flowers. It is grown primarily in southern India. Almost all the members of the
Malvaceae yield bast fibers that can be used in textiles. Some of the most important are as follows: China Jute or Indian Mallow (Abutilon
theophrasti) is an annual plant that yields a strong, coarse,
grayish-white lustrous fiber with characteristics similar to jute. It has been extensively grown in China and
was introduced into North America where it can thrive. The fibers have great tensile strength,
take dyes readily and are used in China for making rugs and paper. Kenaf (Hibiscus cannabinus) is a tall herb
that yields a fiber with has over 129 names, among them Deccan, Ambari or
Gambo Hemp, Java Jute and Mesta Fiber.
It is a substitute for hemp and jute in the manufacture of coarse
canvas, gunnysacks, cordage, matting and fishing nets. The plant is adapted to a wide range of
climates and soils. Harvest is right
after the flowers come into bloom.
The fibers are 5-10 ft. long and are usually extracted by
retting. Kenaf seed yields up to 20
percent of edible oil on being refined. Roselle or Rama (Hibiscus sabdariffa) is cultivated
in India, Southeastern Asia and some Pacific islands as a substitute for jute
and for its edible fruit. The
light-brown fibers are silky, soft and lustrous. Roselle is adapted to well-drained fertile soil where there is
a 20-in. rainfall. It grows fast and
can be harvested 90 days after planting.
Retting is accomplished in 10-12 days, and the fibers are easily
slipped from the bark. The red fleshy
calices and involucels surrounding the young fruits are acid and provide a
sour relish. The juice is used for
flavoring and in making jellies, jams and wine. Aramina or Cadillo (Urena lobata) occurs as a
weed in most tropical countries. It
provides a yellowish-white fiber that is more durable than jute and is used
as a substitute in some industries.
It has been grown commercially in Cuba, Madagascar, Nigeria, the Congo
and Brazil where it is made into coffee sacks. Other malvaceous species that yield fibers but which
are of minor importance include Okra, Hibiscus esculentus, Majagua, Hibiscus tiliaceus, and several
species of the genus Sida. Sida
acuta is an extremely easy plant to harvest and prepare and the fibers
are twice as strong as jute. The Amerindians used the bast fibers of different plant
for their bowstrings, nets, etc. Colorado River Hemp, Sesbania exaltata,
was widely used by the western groups, while Indian
Hemp, Apocynum cannabinum, and Milkweed,
Asclepias syriaca, yielded important fibers for eastern groups
of Amerindians. Abacá or Manila Hemp This is a premier cordage material that is obtained
from several species of wild plantain or banana. Musa textilis is the principal source. It resembles the true banana but has
narrow more tufted leaves and inedible fruits. The plant forms a clump of 12-30 sheathing leafstalks 10-20 ft.
high with a crown of spreading leaf blades 3-6 ft long. The fiber is secured from the outer
portion of the leafstalks. Mature
stalks are cut at the roots and split open lengthwise. The pulp and the fiber strands are
removed, and the strands are washed and dried. Individual fibers are 6-12 ft. long, lustrous and
variable in color from white to light ocher.
They are light, elastic, stiff and very strong, durable and resistant
to both fresh and salt water.
Therefore, the main use of abacá has been in the manufacture of
high-grade cordage, especially marine cables. Plastic cables are frequently substituted but they are not as
easy to manage on ships as true abacá.
Other products made from this kind of hemp are binder twine, bagging,
strong tissue paper, papier-mâché, wrapping paper and Manila paper for
sacks. In Japan Manila hemp was used
in making movable partitions in houses.
The individual fibers cannot be spun, but strands of fibers are used
to make the lustrous cloth known as Sinamay. Musa textilis has been of commercial importance
only in the Philippines although it grows in other Asian countries as
well. The plant was known and used by
the inhabitants of the region centuries before the arrival of the first
European explorers early in the 16th Century. The first shipment was made to North America in 1818. From then until 1918 it was the main
export of the Philippines, amounting to over 300-thousand pounds annually
(Hill 1952). More recently sugar and
sometimes copra have exceeded it in production. Manila help requires a warm climate, fertile soil,
shade, good drainage, abundant moisture and an elevation lower than 3,000
ft. Suckers and rootstalks propagate
it. The crop is grown in small fields
or on large plantations and matures in 18-36 months. After several failures, abacá was successfully
introduced into the Western Hemisphere in 1925 in Panama, but did not develop
into a commercial item. However, with
World War II the serious shortages of Manila hemp became a serious threat to
the war effort and the United States government financed a project in several
Central American countries. Machines
for cleaning the leaves were devised and installed, and soon some 26,000
acres were being cultivated that produced 3-million pounds of fiber. At the end of the war the industry was
soundly established in Costa Rica. By the middle of the 20th Century
agave fibers were next to cotton in importance in America. By 1952 their value sometimes amounted to
over 36 million dollars per year. But due to labor costs and the availability
of synthetic alternatives their production declined thereafter. These plants are stemless perennials with
basal rosettes of erect fleshy leaves.
The leaves contain fibers that are removed either by hand or
machine. There are numerous species
of local occurrence. They are very
drought tolerant and flourish in dry sterile soils. Several kinds of commercial importance are discussed as
follows: Henequén or Mexican
Sisal (Agave fourcroydes) Amerindian groups have used this native Mexican species
since ancient times. By the mid 20th
Century Cuba and the Yucatan Peninsula produced most of the crop. The leaves bear spines that make them
difficult to handle. The light straw
colored fiber is scraped out from the leaf tissue. It is hard, elastic and wiry, measuring 2-5 ft. in length. It was used mainly for binder twine,
lariats and durable mats. It is not
suited for marine or hoisting cables, as it is heavy and weak. Tablemats constructed from this fiber have
a beautiful luster and are resistant to stains. Agave letonae from El Salvador is a related
species. Production declined
dramatically by the 21st Century. This is very similar in appearance
to henequén but the leaves bear few spines.
Native to Mexico and Central America it was cultivated in Hawaii, the
East and West Indies and in several parts of Africa. The plant is very drought resistant and
will grow where other species fail.
Little cultivation is required.
The coarse, stiff, light yellow to white fibers are removed, cleaned,
dried and packed in bales for shipment.
Synthetic fibers also largely replaced sisal by the 21st Century. In ancient times there were several fibers used in
Mexico under the names of Istle, Ixtle or Tampico Fiber. Three species of most importance are Jaumaveistle, Agave funkiana, Tula Istle, A. lecheguilla, and Palma Istle, Samuela carnerosana. Several species of Yucca were also
grouped under the category of Istle.
The fibers are obtained from immature leaves of wild plants. Although these fibers are shorter than
those of sisal and henequén, they are very strong and durable. They were formerly used for brushes and as
a cheap substitute for sisal and abacá to make bagging, twine and rope. Manila Maguey or Cantala, Agave cantala, is a species from
Mexico that was introduced into India and Southeastern Asia. It was grown commercially in the
Philippines, Java and elsewhere as a substitute for sisal. Mexican Maguey
is obtained from different species of Agave and the fibers are
valued only locally by the inhabitants of the region in which it grows. It was nevertheless a highly valued plant
by Amerindians who used it to make the fermented beverages of Pulque
and Mescal. Leaves of the green aloe, Furcraea gigantea, are
the source of Mauritius hemp. The
plant is native to tropical America but is grown worldwide, where local
inhabitants use its fiber. It has
been grown commercially in Mauritius, Madagascar, St. Helena and South
Africa, India, Venezuela and Brazil, where it is know as Piteira. The plant resembles an agave but has
larger, less rigid leaves and a very long peduncle or flower stalk that can
reach of height of 20-40 ft. The
fibers are very long, 4-7 ft., and they are white, soft, very flexible and
elastic. They are not as strong as
sisal and are used either alone or in a mixture for making bags, hammocks,
coarse twine and other cordage. Several other species of Furcraea yield fibers
of local importance in tropical America.
Included are Fique, Furcraea macrophylla,
of Colombia; Cabuya, F. cabuya, of Central
America; and Pitre, F. hexapetala, of the
West Indies and sometimes called Cuban Hemp. Also called New Zealand Flax,
Phormium tenax is from the leaves of an iris like plant. It is native to wet areas of New Zealand
but has been transported throughout the tropics and temperate regions of the
world. In North America it serves as
an ornamental. The fibers are very
long, 3-7 ft. in length, and have a high luster. They are softer and more flexible than abacá and are used
mainly for towlines, twine and other forms of cordage and mattings, and
sometimes for cloth. Many species of the genus Sansevieria occur as
wild plants in parts of tropical Asia and Africa. These bowstring hemps are herbaceous perennials with basal
rosettes of sword like leaves that arise from a creeping rootstalk. The leaves contain a strong white elastic
fiber that has been used since ancient times for mats, hammocks, bowstrings
and other types of cordage. Wild
plants are generally utilized but some species have been cultivated. The fibers are removed by hand or
mechanically. Important species
include Sansevieria thyrsiflora of tropical Africa, S. roxburghiana
of India and S. zeylanica of Sri Lanka. Several species were introduced into North
America among which is the Florida Bowstring Hemp, S. longifolia. This is a term applied to the short, coarse and rough
fibers that make up a large part of the husk of coconut fruits, Cocos
nucifera. It is the only prominent fiber that is obtained from
fruits. Unripe coconuts are soaked in
salt water for several months to loosen the fibers. They are then beaten to separate the fibers that are then
washed and dried. The product has
varied uses. In tropical Asia and
Pacific Islands it is the source of Sennit Braid that
is used for cables, small cordage and hawsers. Coconut fibers are superior to all others for this purpose
because they re very light and elastic and resistant to water. Coir has also been used for brush
bristles, doormats, sacks, floor coverings, some textiles, upholstery, and
stuffing for the bearings of railroad cars and as a substitute for
oakum. Sri Lanka has been the center
for commercial production. In Puerto
Rico coir was used in horticulture as a substitute for peat. Pineapple, Ananas comosus, is the source of fibers
of great strength and fine qualities.
They are shiny white, very durable and flexible and are not harmed by
water. When grown for the fiber
pineapples are planted closer together and develop longer leaves. The best fibers are gathered from leaves
that have not attained their maximum length.
Two-year old leaves are usually harvested and the fibers scraped out
by hand, which is an expensive process.
After drying and combing, the fibers are tied end to end and can be
woven. In the Philippines Piña Cloth is one of the most delicate and
expensive of fabrics made from these fibers. Aechmea magdalenae is a plant that resembles
pineapple. It is native to the dry
alluvial soils from southern Mexico to Ecuador. The long leaves have a fiber of high quality known as Pita
Floja or Pita. These fibers are the
basis of one of the most ancient and most important native industries in
Oaxaca and have also been used in Central America and Colombia. The fibers are 5-8 ft. long, white or light
cream colored, lustrous, finer and more flexible than other hard fibers and
with a high tensile strength. They
are very resistant to salt water so they are used to make fish lines and
nets. They are also used for sewing
leather. This fiber is a substitute for jute. It is from Neoglaziovia variegata a
bromeliad of the dry, hot arid areas of northeastern Brazil. The leaves yield a soft, flexible, white
elastic fiber three times as strong as jute.
Caroá is used for rugs, sacks, textiles, cordage, twine and paper. Brushes, brooms and whisks are
made from various vegetable fibers.
These fibers need to be strong, stiff and elastic with a high
flexibility. Sometimes whole twigs,
fine stems or roots are used, or the fibers are secured from leafstalks. Several important brush fibers are as
follows: A few species of palms that grow in tropical America
and Africa are the source of brush fibers called commercially Piassava,
Piassaba or Bass Fiber. These trees have leaf stalks or leaf
sheaths that yield the stiff, coarse, brown or black fibers in making brushes
for sweeping large areas such as sidewalks and streets West African Piassava is obtained from
a wine palm, Raphia vinifera that grows in profusion in the tidal
bayous and creeks of Liberia and other parts of West Africa. The leafstalks are retted and the bundles
beaten. The long fibers are used to
make mats and brushes. A wine is
fermented from the palm tree sap. Brazilian Piassava is from two
species of palm found in profusion in the lowlands of the Amazon and Orinoco
regions. Attalea funifera is
the source of Bahia Piassava. The fibers are
wiry, stiff and brown and almost like bristles. They are removed from the swollen bases of the leafstalks with
an ax. They have been used primarily
for street-cleaning machine brushes because the fibers are very durable and
retain their resiliency even when wet.
Para Piassava fibers are formed on the margins
of the leaf petioles of Leopoldinia piassaba. They are used not only for brushes and
brooms but also for hats, baskets and ropes. Some other coarse fibers such as Palmyra and Kittul
Fiber are classed as piassava in commerce.
Palmyra Fiber is from the Palmyra
palm, Borassus flabellifer, of the East Indies. This palm is one of the most useful as all
parts of the plant are used for some purpose. The fibers are made into twine, paper, rope and machine brushes. Kittul Fiber is
finer, softer and more pliable. It is obtained from the leaf sheaths of the
toddy palm, Caryota urens, of Sri Lanka and the East Indies. The black bristles are made into strong
ropes or into soft brushes. They also
are substitutes for horsehair and oakum. Cabbage palm, Sabal palmetto, of coastal
southeastern North America yields a valuable fiber called Palmetto Fiber. The highest-grade fiber is obtained from young leaf stalks that
are still in the bud. Coarser fibers
come from mature leaves or the bases of old leaf stalks surrounding the
bud. There was one an industry in
Florida that processed this fiber for use as a substitute for palmyra in
brushes. Palmetto fibers are reddish
tan in color and 8-20 in. long. The
bud of the palm is edible and the roots contain tannin. The sorghum, Sorghum vulgare var. technicum,
differs from other sorghums by having a panicle with long straight
branches. This inflorescence or seed
head is the “brush” that is made into brooms. A dwarf variety exists that furnishes fiber for whiskbrooms,
while the normal sized variety is used for carpet brooms. Harvest is before the end of flowering
season by cutting the stems a few inches below the head. The heads are sorted, threshed and
dried. Another species, Spartina spartinae, is a native grass of the
southern Coastal Plain from Florida to Mexico that has been used in
combination with the sorghum. Brooms
often consist of as much as 50 percent Spartina surrounded by
broomcorn. Broomroot or Zacaton, Muhlenbergia
macroura, is used to manufacture cheaper brushes. The plant is a grass found from Texas to
Central America, especially in the mountainous regions of Mexico. It is a perennial with tufted wiry culms
and coarse roots. The roots are the
plant part utilized. They are
harvested year-round, washed, cleaned and dried. They are then cut from the tops, graded according to quality,
length and color and baled for export. Rough Weaving & Plaiting Fibers There are relatively few materials
that are manufactured for plaited or coarsely woven articles. The raw materials include the rushes,
stems of reeds, willows, bamboo, grasses, rattan and leaves and roots. They are used entirely or split. They are woven or twisted together in a
simple manner and made into sandals, mats, hats, matting, screens, chair
seats, baskets, etc. In many parts of the Eastern Hemisphere, rice, barley,
wheat and rye are grown for the purpose of making braids or straw plaits for
hats. The plants are grown close
together so that they will have few leaves, and they are harvested before
they mature. The stems are split
lengthwise before plaiting. The Leghorn Hats and Tuscan
Hats of Italy are some of the best of the straw hats. Panama Hats are made from
the leaves of Toquilla, Carludovica palmata,
a stem less, palm like plant that grows wild in the forests from southern
Mexico to Peru. It has been
cultivated in Ecuador and parts of Colombia.
The Panama hat industry is concentrated in Ecuador. Young leaves are collected while they are
still folded in the bud and treated with hot water. The coarse veins are removed and the plaits are separated and
split lengthwise into slender strips that are slowly dried and bleached. They gradually roll inward forming fine
cylindrical strands known as Jipijapa. The hats are woven by hand from these
strands. About six leaves are
necessary to make one hat. The best
quality Panama hats are uniform and have a fine texture, are strong, durable
and elastic and resistant to water.
The Puerto Rican Hats are made from
the leaves of the hat palm, Sabal causiarum. In the Eastern Hemisphere commercial mattings have been
made from several rushes, grasses and sedges. Usually the stalks or leaves are used alone, but they may be
combined with cotton of hemp. Some of
the species utilized are Chinese Mat Grass,
Cyperus tegetiformis, and Japanese Mat Rush,
Juncus effusus. The Screw Pines, Pandanus
tectorius and P. utilis are important in Southeastern Asia and
Oceania for making mats. The leaves
of these species are also used for sugar bags, cordage, hats and thatching. Baskets have been and are continuously being made from
an array of plant species worldwide.
Roots, stems, leaves and even woody splints have been used. Commercial baskets are usually made from
rushes, cereal straw, osiers or willows, and ash or white oak splints. Sweet grass baskets are made from Hierochloe
odorata, a common species in lowlands along the coast and Great
Lakes. Another important source of
basket fiber is the raffia palm, Raffia pedunculata, native to
Madagascar. Strips of the lower
epidermis of the leaves are the raffia of commerce. The fiber is so soft and silk like that it can be woven. It is especially useful as a tie material
for nurseries and gardens. This includes chair seats, chairs,
infant carriages, hampers and other light articles of furniture. Willows, rattan and bamboo are the main
plants used. Rattan is obtained from several species of climbing palms,
Calamus spp., that grow in the humid forests of the East Indies and other
parts of tropical Asia. The stems of
these plants are long, strong, flexible and uniform. They are used either entirely or as splits
in Asia for furniture, canes, baskets and other items. A considerable quantity of rattan is
exported for making furniture. Bamboos occur in most tropical areas, but they are especially
abundant in the monsoon regions of Eastern Asia. They are the largest of the grasses with woody stems that
sometimes reach one foot in diameter and a height of over 10 feet. There are many species in the families Arundinaria,
Bambusa, Dendrocalamus, Gigantochloa, Phyllostachys,
and other genera. The stems are used
for all kinds of construction in areas where these plants grow. Exported bamboo is used in the manufacture
of furniture, fishing rods and implements of various kinds. Bamboo splits are made into baskets and
brushes. In the Western Hemisphere bamboos have not been
extensively utilized. Guadua
angustifolia is a species with very strong culms and has been used in
Ecuador to make furniture and in house construction. Many plant fibers have been used
to stuff pillows, cushions, furniture, mattresses, etc. They are also used to caulk the seams of
vessels, in the making of staff for buildings, as stiffening for plaster,
packing for bulkheads and machine bearings, and for the protection of
delicate objects during shipment.
Synthetic materials frequently take the place of these long used
products, but in some ways they retain some superiority. Surface fibers are commonly used for
stuffing because their staples are too short to be spun and thus are not
valued in the textile industry. Bast
fibers are too costly, and hard fibers are frequently too stiff and
coarse. The silk cottons are the most
important source for stuffing. This is the most popular silk cotton and most valuable
of all the stuffing substances. Kapok
is the floss produced in the pods of the kapok tree, Ceiba pentandra. Originally confined to the American
tropics, it is now found worldwide.
It is an irregular tree, 50-100 ft. tall, with a buttressed base and
weird growth habit. It grows rapidly
and begins to bare when only 15 ft. tall.
A mature tree can produce more than 600 pods and from 6-10 lbs. of the
cottony fibers. Pods are clipped from
the branches and opened. The floss is
removed and the seeds separated by centrifugal force. The floss is 1/2-1 1/2 in. long and
whitish, yellowish or brownish in color.
It is very fluffy, light and elastic and is thus an ideal stuffing
material for mattresses and pillows.
The fibers have a low specific gravity. They are five times more buoyant than cork and are impervious
to water. Therefore, kapok is
valuable as a filling for life preservers, cushions, portable pontoons,
etc. Its low thermal conductivity and
its high ability to absorb sound make kapok an excellent material for
insulating small refrigerators and for soundproofing rooms. It has also been used for the linings of
sleeping bags, gloves for handling dry ice and in the tropics as surgical
dressings. Kapok seeds have 45
percent fatty oil that is extracted and used for soap and food. There are a number of other plants with seed hairs or
floss that can be used as a substitute for kapok. The Red Silk Cotton Tree or Simal, Salmalia
malabarica, is a very large ornamental tree. It supplies reddish floss known as Indian
Kapok that has been important as a stuffing in India for
centuries. The White Silk Cotton Tree, Cochlospermum
religiosum, yields a fiber of some importance. This handsome tree is native to India but is now widespread in
the world tropics. It is also one
source of Kadaya Gum. Madar, Calotropis gigantea,
and the related Akund, Calotropis procera,
are shrubs native to Southern Asia and Africa that produce a silk of some
importance. Although inferior to
kapok, this substance is often used in mixtures with kapok. The Pochotes of Mexico, Ceiba
aesculifolia, C. acuminata, etc., yield a silk cotton almost equal
to kapok in buoyancy and resiliency. Palo Borracho, Chorisia insignis, and Samohu, Chorisia speciosa, of South America
yield large amounts of a glossy, white silk cotton with properties similar to
kapok.
<bot183> Pink-flowering Floss Silk Tree [Chorisia speciosa],
Concordia, Argentina All of the milkweeds have silky hairs on their seeds
and several species are a source of stuffing materials. Milkweed floss is one of the lightest
materials. it is very buoyant and a
perfect insulator. It was used during
World War II as a substitute for kapok.
The pods contain oil and a wax that may have future applications. Some species yield textile fibers. In North America, Asclepias syriaca
and A. incarnata produce abundant floss. In the Neotropics, A. curassavica has some value. There are innumerable plants and
fibers that have use as filling materials.
Included are cereal straw, cornhusks, Spanish Moss and Crin Végétal. Spanish Moss, Tillandsia
usneoides, is a conspicuous tree epiphyte in Southeastern North
America. This is an excellent
substitute for horsehair after it is processed. The plant is pulled from the trees with rakes or hooks, or it
is collected from the ground or water.
It is then fermented in order to rot off the gray outer covering and
ginned to remove impurities. The
prepared fiber is brown or black, lustrous and very resilient. It has been used in upholstery and for
automobile cushions. Crin Végétal. Chamaerop
humilis a dwarf fan palm of Northern Africa and the Mediterranean
region in which the leaves have shredded and twisted fibers. These have been used as stuffing material. Some trees have basts with tough interlacing fibers
that can be extracted from the bark in layers or sheets and can then be
pounded into rough substitutes for cloth.
Tapa Cloth is one of these as it once
constituted the main clothing in Polynesia and parts of Eastern Asia. The material is obtained from the bark of
the paper mulberry, Broussonetia papyrifera. Strips of bark are peeled from the trunk and the outer coating
is scraped away. After soaking in
water and cleaning these strips are placed on a hardwood log and pounded with
a mallet. Overlapping the edges and
beating them together unite the individual strips. The finished product varies according to thickness from muslin
like material to one of leather. Tapa
cloth is frequently dyed. Similar bark cloths have been manufactured from
different sources since antiquity. In
South America the Amerindians used the Tauary, Couratari
tauari, and other species of the same genus. In Mozambique the wild fig, Ficus nekbudu, was used as a
source of Mutshu Cloth. The Upas Tree,
Antiaris toxicaria, of Sri Lanka furnishes a bark cloth. it is also the source of an important
poison used with arrows. Lace Bark is the produce of
Lagetta lintearia, a small tree of Jamaica.
The inner bark is removed in sheets and can be stretched into a
lacelike material with pentagonal meshes.
It is suitable as a textile and ornament. Cuba Bast is from Hibiscus
elatus, a small bushy tree of the West Indies. The inner bark is removed in long ribbon-like strips that have
been used in millinery and for tying cigars. The vegetable
sponges, Luffa cylindrica and L. acutangula, yield a unique
fiber. These are climbing cucumbers
of the tropics that bear edible fruits containing a lacy network of stiff
curled fibers. This material is
extracted by retting in water. After
cleaning it is used for making hats, for washing and scouring machinery, in
certain types of oil filters and as a substitute for bath sponges. A large amount of this material used to be
exported by Japan. The manufacture of paper requires the use of cellulose
present in plant fibers. This subject
is discussed under Forest Products The artificial fibers in use in the
textile industry are mostly organic in nature, with synthetic glass fibers
being the exception. The organic
materials utilized are cellulose, plant and animal proteins, and synthetic
resins, such as nylon that is made from soft coal, water and air. The cellulose fibers are discussed under Forest Products, while the protein fibers of only
minor importance. Although they have
many of the general properties of wool, their low strength when wet is a
serious detriment. Soybeans, corn and
peanuts are the main plant sources of protein fibers. |